Toe Up Cable-Look Socks with Reverse Dutch Heel

by Anastacia

Materials:

4 ounces of Paton’s Classic Merino Wool, Color 240 leaf green, or 4 ounces of any worsted weight wool
5 - Size 4 dpns, or size needed to obtain gauge

Cable Rib Pattern:
Rnd 1, 2, 3: k2, p2 across

Rnd 4: Insert right hand needle into first two stitches on left hand needle and k1, but leave sts on left needle. Insert right hand needle into first stitch on left hand needle again and k1 and slip the 2 stitches off left hand needle, p2, and repeat across.

Techniques:

Increases – I used lifted bar increase (M1) , but use increase method of your choice.

Instructions:
Rnd 1: Beginning at toe, cast on figure 8 method 4 stitches on 2 needles.

Rnd 2-3: Work even.

Rnd 4: Increase every other stitch and at the same time, divide onto 4 needles, 4 stitches each needle.

Rnd 5-6: Work even.

Rnd 7: On each needle around, (k1, m1, k2, m1, k1) – 24 stitches total.

Rnd 8-9: Work even.

Rnd 10: On each needle around, (k1, m1, k4, m1, k1) – 32 stitches total.

Rnd 11-12: Work even.

Rnd 13: On each needle around, (k1, m1, k6, m1, k1) – 40 stitches total.

Toe finished, begin leg pattern on top of foot only:

Rnd 14, 15, 16: p1, (k2, p2) around, but end last repeat with p1.

Rnd 17: p1, Insert right hand needle into first two stitches on left hand needle and k1, but leave sts on left needle. Insert right hand needle into first stitch on left hand needle again and k1 and slip the 2 stitches off left hand needle, p2, and repeat across, but end with p1.

Repeat fake cable pattern until foot measures length desired minus 2.5”.

Begin gusset:

Rnd 1: Work across top of foot in pattern (needles 1 & 2). On needle 3, k1, m1, k across rest of needle. On needle 4, k across to last stitch, m1, k1.

Work even for one row.

Repeat last two rows for desired gusset area – I worked 6 increases on either side of foot for a total of 12 increases and 12 rows.

Heel:

Heel will be worked over sts on Needle 3 and Needle 4, starting on Row 1, below.
Row 1 (wrong side): slip first stitch, purl across next 14 stitches; on next needle, purl 5. Turn
Row 2: (right side): slip first stitch, knit across next 9 stitches, turn.
Row 3: Slip first stitch, purl across next 9 stitches, turn.
Repeat rows 2 & 3 three times more, and then repeat row 2 once more.

After knitting last row, you will continue along the side of the flap and pick up and knit 5 stitches on the side of the flap.

Slip first stitch, purl back the 5 stitches you just picked up, the next 10 stitches from your flap, and pick up 5 more stitches along other side of flap – 20 purl stitches. You are left with your original 20 stitches from the bottom of your foot, and gusset stitches to be decreased away.

Sl first st, k1, slip 1 across to last stitch of the heel, and decrease last stitch along with one stitch from gusset.

Turn, and purl back, decreasing last stitch of heel with one stitch from gusset.

Repeat these two rows until all the gusset stitches have been decreased away and you have only 20 stitches.

Knit across the two needles you have been working on, work across the top of your foot in pattern, and continue the pattern around the leg.

Knit even in pattern for desired length of leg, minus 2” for ribbing.

K2, p2 around. Bind off loosely, using Elizabeth Zimmermann’s sewn bind off, or other bind off of your choice.

ABOUT THE DESIGNER:

Anastacia learned to crochet so long ago she barely remembers. What she does remember is moving to a new house and wanting an afghan on her bed. She asked her mom & her dad (both who know how to crochet, though neither currently does) to make her one, without any luck. So she went out and bought a few skeins of yarn – not having any idea how much yarn one needs for an afghan – and began crocheting. After that, she saw a pattern for a granny square afghan & her mother taught her how to read patterns. From then on the obsession began! Anastacia learned to knit around the same time from a church friend, but it never really “took” until 4 or so years ago when she stumbled across combo knitting (not knowing what it was called at the time). Her favorite things to knit or crochet are anything with lots of color – stripes, fair isle, intarsia motifs, etc.

Fu

by ax174

For the Chinese, bats are symbols of good luck, as is the colour red; you can’t go wrong wearing this cherry coloured scarf with flying bats. The bat motif is from Barbara Walker’s Third Treasury of Knitting Patterns.

Fu 1

All necessary materials/notions/tools:
• 2 skeins of Brown Sheep Cotton Fleece (or other worsted weight yarn) in “Cherry Moon” colour
• 4.5 mm knitting needles
• Stitch markers
• Tapestry needle for weaving ends

Finished size:
Gauge is not critical for this project.

Abbreviations:
pm = place marker
k2tog = knit 2 sts together
sl-k2tog-psso = slip 1 st knitwise, k2tog, pass slipped st over
sl2-k-p2sso = slip 2 sts knit wise, k1, pass 2 slipped sts over
slm = slip marker
ssk = slip 2 sts knitwise, knit these 2 together
ktbl = knit through back loop
yo = yarn over

Directions:

Cast on 39 sts.
Knit 6 rows (3 garter stitch ridges).
Do the Pattern Repeat 12 times or as many times as desired for length of scarf.*
Knit 6 rows (3 garter stitch ridges).
Bind off and weave in ends. Block lightly.

* If you prefer a symmetrical scarf, make 2 halves of 6 bats each, then weave together.

fu2

Pattern Repeat (36 rows, 33 sts throughout):

Row 1: k3, pm, k14, yo, k2tog, k1, ssk, yo, k14, pm, k3

Row 2 (and all even-numbered rows): k3, slm, p33, slm, k3

Row 3: repeat row 1

Row 5: k3, slm, k14, yo, k2tog, yo, sl-k2tog-psso, yo, k14, slm, k3

Row 7: k3, slm, k3, yo, ssk, k7, k2tog, yo, k2, ktbl, k2, yo, ssk, k7, k2tog, yo, k3, slm, k3

Row 9: k3, slm, k2, yo, k2tog, yo, ssk, k5, k2tog, yo, k7, yo, ssk, k5, k2tog, yo, ssk, yo, k2, slm, k3

Row 11: k3, slm, k2, yo, k2tog, k1, yo, ssk, k3, k2tog, yo, k9, yo, ssk, k3, k2tog, yo, k1, ssk, yo, k2, slm, k3

Row 13: k3, slm, k2, yo, k2tog, k2, yo, ssk, k1, k2tog, yo, k11, yo, ssk, k1, k2tog, yo, k2, ssk, yo, k2, slm, k3

Row 15: k3, slm, k2, yo, k2tog, k3, yo, sl-k2tog-psso, yo, k13, yo, sl-k2tog-psso, yo, k3 ssk, yo, k2, slm, k3

Row 17: k3, slm, k2, yo, k2tog, k3, ktbl, k1, ktbl, k3, k2tog, yo , k3, yo, ssk, k3, ktbl, k1, ktbl, k3, ssk, yo, k2, slm, k3

Row 19: k3, slm, k3, yo, k4, sl2-k-p2sso, k4, yo, ktbl, yo, sl2-k-p2sso, yo, ktbl, yo, k4, sl2-k-p2sso, k4, yo, k3, slm, k3

Row 21: k3, slm, k4, yo, k3, sl2-k-p2sso, k3, yo, k2tog, yo, k3, yo, ssk, yo, k3, sl2-k-p2sso, k3, yo, k4, slm, k3

Row 23: k3, slm, k5, yo, k2, sl2-k-p2sso, k2, yo, k2tog, yo, ktbl, yo, sl-k2tog-psso, yo, ktbl, yo, ssk, yo, k2, sl2-k-p2sso, k2, yo, k5, slm, k3

Row 25: k3, slm, k6, yo, k1, sl2-k-p2sso, k1, yo, k3, yo, ssk, k1, k2tog, yo, k3, yo, k1, sl2-k-p2sso, k1, yo, k6, slm, k3

Row 27: k3, slm, k7, yo, sl2-k-p2sso, yo, k5, yo, sl-k2tog-psso, yo, k5, yo, sl2-k-p2sso, yo, k7, slm, k3

Row 29: k3, slm, k7, k2tog, yo, k4, k2tog, yo, k3, yo, ssk, k4, yo, ssk, k7, slm, k3

Row 31: k3, slm, k8, ktbl, k5, ktbl, k3, ktbl, k5, ktbl, k8, slm, k3

Row 33: k

Row 34: p

Rows 35-36: Repeat last two rows.

fu3

Froggy!

by Rachel

Froggy

Materials:

Worsted weight wool (I used some leftover wool I space dyed, in daffodil)

Gauge:

Doesn’t much matter, I used size 8 needles

Directions:

Leg:

Start at the foot and worked up

CO 7 sts. Knit 8 rows.

Row 9: (K1 K2tog) two times, K1

Row 10: K

Row 11: K2tog, K1, K2tog

Row 12-29 (or until you like the leg length): Knit 3 st I cord.

Row 30: K front and back, Knit 2 (4 sts)

Cut yarn and put on holder.

Make a second leg the same, only do not cut the yarn.

Body:

Row 31: after increasing for the 2nd leg, CO 8, K the 4 sts of the 1st leg, CO 8. Join in the round (I had 8 sts on 3 needles)

Row 32-40: K

Row 41: (K10, K2tog) two times.

Row 42: K

Row 43: (K9, K2tog) two times

Row 44: K

Row 45: (K8, K2tog) two times

Row 46: K

Row 47: (K7, K2tog) two times

Row 48: K

Row 49: (K7, Kf&b) two times

Row 50-51: K 2

Row 52: (K8, Kf&b) two times

Row 53-55: K

I stuffed at this point with scrap yarn.

Row 54: (K2, K2tog) around

Row 55: K2tog around. Secure.

Arms

CO 5 sts. K 4 rows

Row 5: K2tog, K, K2tog

Row 6: K

Row 7-12- 3st Icord. Cast off.

Sew just below neck.

Eyes: I crocheted 10 single crochet into a circle and pulled tight. I sewed these on and then added a knot for the pupil (I was out of black yarn, hence the blue eyed frog).

Felting: I hand felted him since he is small. Then sit him on the counter to dry.

Tickled Pink Socks

by Monica

This sock has cable pattern on the sides and a simple rib pattern on the front. The cable pattern adds a little interest to a basic sock.

Tickled Pink Socks

Materials
2 skeins of Lorna’s Laces Shepherd Sport, 200 yards each skein, sock on pattern knit with Tickled Pink color
1 set US #2/3 mm double-point needles OR circular needle(s)
NOTE: Adjust needle size to get the correct gauge.
Stitch marker
Tapestry Needle

Gauge
7 ½” stitches = 1 inch in stockinette stitch

Abbreviations
K=Knit
P=Purl
SSK=Slip 2 stitches as if to knit then knit those 2 stitches together
K2 Tog=Knit 2 stitches together
TBL=through back loop
C4F=Cable 4 Front: Slip next 2 stitches to cable needle and hold to front of work, k2 from left needle, and k2 from cable needle.
C4B=Cable 2 Back: Slip next 2 stitches to cable needle and hold to back of work, k2 from left needle, and k2 from cable needle.

Pattern
Row 1 and 2: K8, P2, (*K3, P2) repeat from * 4 times, K8, P2, (*K3, P2) repeat from * 4 times
Row 3: C4F, C4B, P2, (*K3, P2) repeat from * 4 times, C4F, C4B, P2, (*K3, P2) repeat from * 4 times
Row 4, 5, and 6: K8, P2, (*K3, P2) repeat from * 4 times, K8, P2, (*K3, P2) repeat from * 4 times
Row 7: C4F, C4B, P2, (*K3, P2) repeat from * 4 times, C4F, C4B, P2, (*K3, P2) repeat from * 4 times Row 8, 9, and 10: K8, P2, (*K3, P2) repeat from * 4 times, K8, P2, (*K3, P2) repeat from * 4 times
Row 11: C4B, C4F, P2, (*K3, P2) repeat from * 4 times, C4F, C4B, P2, (*K3, P2) repeat from * 4 times
Row 12, 13, and 14: K8, P2, (*K3, P2) repeat from * 4 times, K8, P2, (*K3, P2) repeat from * 4 times
Row 15: C4B, C4F, P2, (*K3, P2) repeat from * 4 times, C4B, C4F, P2, (*K3, P2) repeat from * 4 times
Row 16: K8, P2, (*K3, P2) repeat from * 4 times, K8, P2, (*K3, P2) repeat from * 4 times

Instructions:

Leg
Cast on 60 stitches.
Put 15 stitches on Needle 1, 15 stitches on Needle 2, 15 stitches on Needle 3 and 15 stitches on Needle 4. Join in the round and add a stitch marker to indicate beginning of round. Make sure you do not twist your join.
Work K3, P2 ribbing for 1 inch. Follow pattern until your sock is 6 inches long or desired length. Adjust stitches for the heel. Move 4 stitches from Needle 4 to Needle 1 and move 4 stitches from Needle 2 to Needle 3.

Heel Flap

The heel is worked back and forth on 30 stitches using Needles 3 and 4 as follows:
Row 1 (wrong side): Slip 1 stitch, purl to end.
Row 2 (right side): [slip 1 stitch, knit 1 stitch] to end

Repeat these 2 rows until heel measures 2 inches ending with Row 2 just completed.

Turn Heel

Row 1: Purl 17 stitches, purl 2 stitches together, purl 1 stitch and turn.
Row 2: Slip 1 stitch, knit 5 stitches, knit 2 stitches together, knit 1 stitch and turn.
Row 3: Slip 1 stitch, purl 6 stitches, purl 2 stitches together, purl 1 stitch and turn.
Row 4: Slip 1 stitch, knit 7 stitches, knit 2 stitches together, knit 1 stitch and turn.
Row 5: Slip 1 stitch, purl 8 stitches, purl 2 stitches together, purl 1 stitch and turn.
Row 6: Slip 1 stitch, knit 9 stitches, knit 2 stitches together, knit 1 stitch and turn.
Row 7: Slip 1 stitch, purl 10 stitches, purl 2 stitches together, purl 1 stitch and turn.
Row 8: Slip 1 stitch, knit 11 stitches, knit 2 stitches together, knit 1 stitch and turn.
Row 9: Slip 1 stitch, purl 12 stitches, purl 2 stitches together, purl 1 stitch and turn.
Row 10: Slip 1 stitch, knit 13 stitches, knit 2 stitches together, knit 1 stitch and turn.
Row 11: Slip 1 stitch, purl 14 stitches, purl 2 stitches together, purl 1 stitch and turn.
Row 12: Slip 1 stitch, knit 15 stitches, knit 2 stitches together, and knit 1 stitch.

You should have 18 stitches left on your needle.

Gusset
On left side of heel flap, pick up and knit 15 stitches with one needle.
With another needle P1, K3, (*P2, K3) repeat from * to the last 4 stitches and end with K3, P1 on Needles 2 and 3.
With the next needle, pick up and knit 15 stitches along the ride side of the heel flap. Knit 9 stitches of the heel stitches with the same needle. Slip the other half of the heel stitches onto first needle that contains the stitches you picked up for the left side of the heel flap. You should have 48 stitches on the heel stitches and 30 stitches of the foot for a total of 78 stitches on all needles.

Gusset Decreases
Round 1: On Needle 1, K9, K12 TBL, K2 Tog TBL, K1 TBL; on Needles 2 and 3, P1, (*K3, P2) repeat from * 5 times and on the last 4 stitches K3, P1; and on Needle 4, K1 TBL, SSK, K12 TBL, K9. You should be at center back heel.
Round 2: Knit all stitches on Needle 1 P1, (*K3, P2) repeat from * 5 times and on the last 4 stitches K3, P1; and knit all stitches on Needle 4.
Round 3: On Needle 1, K to the last 3 stitches, K2 Tog, K1; On Needles 2 and 3, Knit Row 4 of foot pattern, K1, SSK, and knit to end of needle.

Following rounds 2 and 3 continue decreasing in this manner, every other round until you have 30 stitches remaining on the heel, 9 sets of decreases worked on each side.

Next round: On Needle 1, knit all stitches; P1, (*K3, P2) repeat from * 5 times and on the last 4 stitches K3, P1; and on Needle 4, knit all stitches.

Continue knitting in this manner until 1 ½ inches less than desired length of foot.

Toe
Distribute stitches evenly on your needles so that you have 15 stitches on each needle before you start your toe decreases.
Round 1: On Needle 1, knit to last 3 stitches, K1, SSK; on Needle 2, K2 Tog, K1, knit to end of needle; on Needle 3, knit to last 3 stitches, K1, SSK and on Needle 4, K2 Tog, K1, knit to end of needle.
Round 2: Knit all stitches

Repeat these 2 rounds 9 more times until you have 5 stitches left on each needle for a total of 20 stitches. Using Needle 4, knit to last stitch of Needle 1 so that you have 10 stitches on Needle 4.
Move stitches on Needle 3 onto Needle 2 so that you have 10 stitches on Needle 2.
Break yarn, leaving 12-inch tail.
Graft stitches on Needle 2 to stitches on Needle 3.

Grafting the toe of the sock:
Draw the 12-inch tail through the eye of the tapestry needle.
Hold Needles 2 and 3 together with right sides of the sock facing.
Step 1: Draw the yarn through the first stitch on the front needle as if to purl and leave the stitch on the needle.
Step 2: Draw the yarn through the first stitch on the back needle as if to knit and leave the stitch on the needle.
Step 3: Draw the yarn through the first stitch of the front needle as if to knit and remove the stitch from the needle.
Step 4: Draw the yarn through the next stitch on the front stitch as if to purl and leave stitch on needle.
Step 5: Draw the yarn through the first stitch on the back needle as if to purl and remove the stitch from the needle.
Step 6: Draw the yarn through the next stitch on the back needle as if to knit and leave the stitch on the needle.

Repeat steps 3, 4, 5 and 6 until you do not have any stitches left on both needles.

Weave in Ends.
Tickled Pink Socks

ABOUT THE DESIGNER

Monica
lives in southern CA where she battles the heat and snakes and giant spiders by staying indoors and knitting.