Island of Misfit Patterns

by Rebecca

For my first attempt at felting a knitted project, I followed the construction method at www.philosopherswool.com/Pages/FeltedBags.htm in general, though using smaller needles and single strand yarn. I added the piano design which I charted myself in Excel. The result was this cute piano bag, which I finished just in time to give to Mom for her birthday.

More pictures at http://terrathree.livejournal.com/180476.html and http://www.flickr.com/photos/durandir/tags/pianofeltedtote/ .

Materials:

US 7 Circular needles (I used my Denise interchangeable needles)
Stitch marker for beginning of round
1 skein each of:
- Patons Classic Merino Wool, “Bright Red”
- Patons Classic Merino Wool, “Winter White”
- Bernat Lana, “Ebony”

(at least that’s what I used. Any feltable wool is fine. Do a test swatch first. You’ll note the little miniature piano-patterned wallet/purselet in some of these pictures: That was my test swatch. I did about 2 1/3 repeats of the piano pattern, just enough to be able to get it around the needles. Then I sewed up the bottom of the tube and felted it to figure out how much these yarns would shrink. I sort of neglected to use any red in the test swatch, though. Fortunately it felted as well as the white of the same brand did!)

Measurements:

Before felting: 19″ wide, 20″ long
After felting: 14″ wide, 12″ long. Just perfect for holding Mom’s piano music…

Directions:

CO 208 in red. Join the round and K 8 rows.

Row 9: K 22, BO 60, K 44, BO 60, K 22
Row 10: K 22, CO 40, K 44, CO 40, K 22: 168 st.

Continue knitting around, alternating colors to create stripes as you like (see below for a picture that specifies how many rows I used in each stripe, if you’re curious). When you reach the point where you want the piano design, work from the chart given below. (Since you knit this purse top-down, you have to just turn the piano chart upside-down and start from what is actually its top left corner…) After the chart, continue working in stripes until the purse is long enough for your taste. At the end, I did a single-crochet bind-off using a crochet hook to join the front and back of the purse. A 3-needle bind off would work too, but when I reached that point all I had was a crochet hook so I improvised! Or you could bind off normally and then use a tapestry needle to sew the bottom closed. The details aren’t going to show after felting, so the method is open to negotiation!

Felt the bag…you can see on the pattern-picture below the felting method I used, or substitute another that you prefer. I let the whole wash/rinse cycle run (hot wash, cold rinse) to felt the bag as much as possible, for maximum strength. After felting, put in a Tupperware or something of the appropriate size to fill the bag out and block it into a neater rectangular shape.

After drying, I found it helped to take a safety razor and shave off some of the fuzz on the outer surface of the felt, especially over the piano design, to let the black/white pattern show through to best effect. And there you have it! One completed piano felted tote! Mom likes hers.

Click any of the images below for a full size version.

The piano chart:

The pattern, picture style:

by efrat

My friend Stacey from my knitting group was kind enough to test-knit my pattern and bring her ant by for a picnic photo-shoot. The ant i made is the purely red ant, but i sent it off to the intended recipient in a rush (the baby was already born and i didn’t want to stall).

This toy ant was inspired by Jess Hutch’s bunny pattern. I made the bunny for a friend’s baby, and in stopping to admire a progress picture, I noticed how much it looked like the sections of an insect (evidence:
my “peanut bunny” progress pic ). Then an entomologist friend was expecting a baby, so I got downright inspired and came up with this aunt-made ant.

The body of the ant is knit in one piece: you stuff it as you go, slipping a few stitches to be picked up later for each of the legs. When you are done, all you have to knit is the i-cord for the antennae.

SIZE
one (dependent on yarn used & gauge)

FINISHED MEASUREMENTS
Width: 2.25 inches (without legs. Legs = 3 inches long apiece, stretched out)
Length: 8.5 inches

MATERIALS
Red ant: Knitpicks Shine Sport [60% Pima Cotton, 40% Modal ; 110 yards/50 gram ball]
Color: Cherry (less than 1 skein)

Red ant with black legs: Debbie Bliss Cashmerino DK [55% merino wool, 33% microfibre, 12% cashmere; 125 yards/50 gram ball]
Colors: Red, Black (less than 1 skein each)

1 set US #4/3.5 mm double-point needles

Notions required:
* small amount of contrasting yarn or embroidery thread for eyes
* 3 (or more) pipe cleaners in color to match the ant’s body (use the long ones so one pipe cleaner can be threaded through 2 legs, adding extra support by going through the ant’s body)
* tapestry needle
* polyester fiberfill stuffing
* 6 safety pins or small stitch holders

GAUGE
28 sts/28 rows = 4 inches stockinette stitch

Gauge is not crucial for this project, but it is advisable to knit a firm fabric to prevent the stuffing from showing though.

PATTERN NOTES

Toy Safety: please visit this site for information on toy safety. If you plan to make this toy for a child aged 4 and under, I recommend taking special care with the pipe cleaner ends: wrap the ends of the legs with yarn to add extra protection from the wire ends that could work themselves out. If you’re really worried, you can skip the pipe cleaner part and just make the i-cord, but the legs will lose their poseable appeal.

PATTERN

Head
CO 6 stitches. Distribute among 3 needles (you can use 4 needles if you prefer, once you have enough stitches) and join for knitting in the round. PM.

Round 1: K all sts.
Round 2: Kfb into each st. (12 sts)
Round 3: K all sts.
Round 4: Kfb, k1, kfb, k1, kfb, kfb, k1, kfb, k1, kfb, k2 (18 sts)
Round 5: K all sts.
Round 6: *Kfb, k2*, rep 5 times (24 sts)
Round 7: K all sts.
Round 8: Kfb, k3, kfb, k3, kfb, k4, kfb, k3, kfb, k3, kfb, k2 (30 sts)
Round 9: K all sts.
Round 10: Kfb, k4, kfb, k4, kfb, k6, kfb, k4, kfb, k4, kfb, k2 (36 sts)
Round 11: K all sts.
Round 12: Kfb, k5, kfb, k5, kfb, k8, kfb, k5, kfb, k5, kfb, k2 (42 sts)
Rounds 13-17: K all sts.
Round 18: ssk, k5, ssk, k5, ssk, k8, k2tog, k5, k2tog, k5, k2tog, k2 (36 sts)
Round 19: K all sts.
Round 20: ssk, k4, ssk, k4, ssk, k6, k2tog, k4, k2tog, k4, k2tog, k2 (30 sts)
Round 21: K all sts.
Round 22: ssk, k3, ssk, k3, ssk, k4, k2tog, k3, k2tog, k3, k2tog, k2 (24 sts)
Round 23: K all sts.
Round 24: *ssk, k2*, rep 2 times; *k2tog, k2*, rep 2 times (18 sts)
Round 25: K all sts.

Now’s the time to embroider the eyes, while there’s still room to move your fingers around inside the head. I used satin-stitch rectangles for the eyes, but feel free to make the eyes another way if you wish (beads or buttons would work if you’re not concerned about a choking hazard). If you would rather wait to place the eyes until the ant is completed and you’re certain where they need to go, the eyes can easily enough be done at the very end.
Now, stuff the head so it is firm but still squeezable.

Round 26: ssk, k1, ssk, k1, ssk, k2tog, k1, k2tog, k1, k2tog, k2 (12 sts)
Round 27: K all sts.

Embroidery directions:

Use satin stitch to create the eyes. Then, either weave in ends or (to make embroidery more secure) tie a knot in back of work using both loose ends, making sure not to pull too tightly, or embroidery will distort the knitted fabric. If choking hazards are not a concern, you can use buttons for the eyes.

Thorax: This section is shaped very similarly to the head, beginning on what is round 4 of the head section. The slipped stitches in this section should be placed on a holder (a safety pin works well) and will later be picked up to create the legs.

Round 28: Kfb, k1, kfb, k1, kfb, kfb, k1, kfb, k1, kfb, k2 (18 sts)
Round 29: K all sts.
Round 30: *Kfb, k2*, rep 5 times (24 sts)
Round 31: K all sts.
Round 32: Kfb, k3, kfb, k3, kfb, k4, kfb, k3, kfb, k3, kfb, k2 (30 sts)
Round 33: K all sts.
Round 34: Kfb, k4, kfb, k4, kfb, k6, kfb, k4, kfb, k4, kfb, k2 (36 sts)
Round 35: K all sts.
Round 36: Kfb, k5, kfb, k5, kfb, k8, kfb, k5, kfb, k5, kfb, k2 (42 sts)
Rounds 37-41: K all sts.
Round 42: k6, sl3 and place on holder, k24, sl 3 and place on holder, k6 (36 active sts)

(Note: the slipped stitches should be placed in a way that makes sense for the legs. Depending on where you oriented the eyes, you may wish to re-orient the leg holes. I’ve described how many stitches apart they should be, so use that as a reference. )

Round 43: K all sts.
Round 44: ssk, k4, ssk, k4, ssk, k6, k2tog, k4, k2tog, k4, k2tog, k2 (30 sts)
Round 45: K all sts.
Round 46: ssk, k3, ssk, k3, ssk, k4, k2tog, k3, k2tog, k3, k2tog, k2 (24 sts)
Round 47: K all sts.
Round 48: k3, sl3 and place on holder, k12, sl 3 and place on holder, k3 (18 active sts) )

(Note: as with the first set of legs, the orientation should make sense in relation to the placement of the eyes. If you re-oriented the first set of leg holes, you should follow suit with this set. )

Round 49: K all sts.
Round 50: ssk, k1, ssk, k1, ssk, k2tog, k1, k2tog, k1, k2tog, k2 (12 sts)
Now stuff the thorax so it is firm but still squeezable.
Round 51: K all sts.

Body (Abdomen):

Round 52: Kfb, k1, kfb, k1, kfb, kfb, k1, kfb, k1, kfb, k2 (18 sts)
Round 53: K all sts.
Round 54: K6, kfb, k1, kfb, kfb, k1, kfb, k6 (22 sts)
Round 55: K all sts.
Round 4: K9, kfb, k2, kfb, k9 (24 sts)
Round 5: K all sts.
Round 6: K9, kfb, k4, kfb, k9 (26 sts)
Round 7: K all sts.
Round 8: K9, kfb, k6, kfb, k9 (28 sts)
Round 9: K all sts.
Round 10: K9, kfb, k8, kfb, k9 (30 sts)
Round 11: K all sts.
Round 12: K9, kfb, k10, kfb, k9 (32 sts)
Round 13: K all sts.
Round 14: K9, kfb, k12, kfb, k9 (34 sts)
Round 15: K all sts.
Round 16: K9, kfb, k14, kfb, k9 (36 sts)
Round 17: K all sts.
Round 18: K4, sl3, k22, sl3, k4 (30 active sts) (Note: remember what you did with the other 2 sets of leg-holes. If you re-oriented them, you should follow suit with this set. )
Rounds 19-20: K all sts.
Round 21: [k2tog, k4] around. (30 sts)
Round 22: K all sts.
Round 23: [k2tog, k3] around. (24 sts)
Round 24: K all sts.
Round 25: [k2tog, k2] around. (18 sts)
Round 26: K all sts.
Stuff the abdomen so it is firm but still squeezable.
Round 27: [k2tog, k1] around. (12 sts)
Round 28: K all sts.
Round 29: [k2tog] around. (6 sts)

Break yarn. Add a little more stuffing if you wish. Thread tail through rem sts and pull firmly. Tie a knot if desired and thread the yarn through the body.

Legs (repeat for all 6 legs):
Place 3 slipped stitches on a dpn, pick up and knit 3 additional stitches. Depending on where the yarn falls, you may need to knit 3 stitches so your yarn is now at the end of the row of stitches. Commence 6 stitch i-cord and work for approximately 3 inches. Place stitches on holder (a safety pin will do the job well).

Antennae (make 2):

Cast on 5 stitches and work i-cord for approximately 2 inches. I skipped the pipe cleaner for the antennae, so 2 inches makes for cute, slightly floppy antennae. Make yours shorter if you want to avoid the floppy effect.

Decrease row: K2tog, k1, k2tog
Next row: K2tog, k1

Break yarn and thread through remaining stitches. Weave in ends.

FINISHING

Note: if you would like a sturdier leg, twist 2 or 3 pipecleaners together to form a sturdier, thicker pipecleaner.

Thread a pipe cleaner through 2 legs (left & right side) as follows: Thread tapestry needle with pipe cleaner and bend pipe cleaner to keep it connected to the tapestry needle when working it through the body of the ant. Begin at the end of one of the legs, go through the body, and out the leg on the other side. Stretch the i-cord out to its fullest length over the pipe cleaner, and trim the excess length of the pipe cleaner.
Slide the 6 stitches from the holder onto a dpn.

Next row i-cord: k2tog, k2, k2 tog
Next row i-cord: k1, k2tog, k1

Leaving a longish tail (at least 8 inches), break yarn and thread through remaining stitches. When weaving in ends, make sure to wrap well around the stitches where the wire end of the pipe cleaner could poke through. I wrapped mine so that I essentially created a little footpad on the end.

Repeat for 2 more sets of legs.

Position antennae on head and use the CO tail to attach.

ABOUT THE DESIGNER

efrat is a Texraeli* living in Setauket, NY who learned to knit a few
years ago when she moved to New York and figured an indoor hobby
would be well suited for the winters. She loves repurposing materials
and thus makes art out of beachcombing finds, wallets out of duct
tape, and hula hoops out of irrigation tubing. You can see more of
her crafty endeavors here.

* a Texas-raised Israeli

by Monica

These super sweet sweaters can be used as ornaments, keychains, clothing for very small dolls - anything, really. If you use size 3 needles, your sweater will probably be about 2 inches high.

Yarn: Leftover Vesper Sock yarn or any other leftover yarn you have

Needles:
US Size 3 double points

Gauge:
It doesn’t matter - the larger the gauge, the larger the sweater.

Abbreviations:
K = Knit
P = Purl
KF&B = Knit through front and back

Instructions:

Cast on 14 stitches.

Join in the round and knit your preferred edging for 5 rounds. The light pink sweater was done with seed stitch and the other sweater used K1, P1 ribbing.

After finishing your neck edging, you start increasing to form the body of your sweater.

Round 1: KF&B twice, place a marker, KF&B, K3, KF&B, place a marker, KF&B of next 2 stitches, place a marker, KF&B, K3, KF&B. By the end of the round, you should have increased 8 stitches and have a total of 22 stitches on your needles.

Round 2: Knit

Round 3: KF&B, K2, KF&B, move marker, KF&B, K5, KF&B, move marker, KF&B, K2, KF&B, move marker, KF&B, K5, KF&B (30 stitches).

Round 4: Knit

Round 5: KF&B, K4, KF&B, move marker, KF&B, K7, KF&B, move marker, KF&B, K4, KF&B, move marker, KF&B, K7, KF&B (38 stitches).

Round 6: Knit

Round 7: KF&B, K6, KF&B, move marker, KF&B, K9, KF&B, move marker, KF&B, K6, KF&B, move marker, KF&B, K9, KF&B (46 stitches).

At this point you can separate the sleeves from the body or continue increasing until the top of the sweater is the size you want it to be.

To separate the sleeves from the body, knit 10 stitches and put them on a stitch holder (this is one sleeve), remove marker, knit 13 stitches, knit 10 stitches and put them on a stitch holder (this is the second sleeve), remove marker, knit 13 stitches. You should have 26 stitches on your needles, which forms the body of the sweater.

Knit the body of the sweater until it is as long as you want it to be. You can either immediately bind off for a sweater with a rolling hem, or knit 5 rows of edging to match the neckband and then bind off.

Sleeves:

Move the 10 stitches that you put on a holder to your double pointed needles.

Pick up 1 stitch and knit the stitches till you get to the end of your row. Pick up another stitch.

Continue knitting in the round until the sleeve measures at least 1 ½ inches. Knit ½” of chosen edging and bind off. If want your sleeves to roll, continue knitting until the sleeve measures 2”. Bind off.

Repeat for the second sleeve.

Weave in ends.

By Dee, A Deanna Donovan Design.

Who doesn’t love the feel of cashmere? Knitting a sweater out of it can be very expensive so here is a pattern for a luxurious neck scarf out of sumptuous cashmere. You are worth it, your neck deserves it.

Materials:

• 1 skein Lang Cashmere-Luxe 100% cashmere 25g/50m
• 1 pair size US 10 ½ knitting needles
• tapestry needle

Seeded Rib Pattern: Multiple of 4 + 1

Finished measurements: 28 ½” length by 4 ¼ “ width.

Instructions:

Using long tail cast on, CO 17 sts on a US 10 ½ needle.

Row 1: (Right side) P1, *k3, p1; rep to end from *

Row 2: K2, p1, *k3, p1; rep from * to last 2 sts., k2.

Repeat rows until almost out of yarn, cast off in pattern. Block scarf lightly to open up pattern. Weave in ends.

ABOUT THE DESIGNER
Deanna prefers that you call her Dee. She knits too much, cleans too little, blogs a bit and lives in Chicagoland with her husband, two teenage sons and two adorable westies. She is organizing the second and now annual Heartland Knitting Retreat this December 2006 details at www.kneatles.com