Island of Misfit Patterns

by Kathryn.

(All these strings of numbers in parentheses making your eyes glaze over? Try the algebraic version, which works off of proportions. Need something you can print out and stick in your pocket? Try the pocket reference, with all the excess words cut out.

Materials: approximately 100 grams or 4 ounces of yarn of any weight; heavier yarns will need a bit more, lighter yarns will need a bit less.
Needles: A set of five double point needles suitable to the yarn, as follows:

• Lace weight yarn: size 0 (10 st/in)
• Sock weight yarn: size 0, 1, or 2 (7-9 st/in)
• Fingering weight yarn: size 2 (8 st /in)
• DK or sport weight yarn: size 2 or 3 (7 st/in)
• Light worsted yarn: size 4 (6 st/in)
• Worsted yarn: size 4 or 5 (5.5 – 6 st/in)
• Heavy worsted yarn: size 5 or 6 (5 st / in)
• Chunky yarn: size 7 (4 st / in)

Gauges given are approximate. The idea behind this pattern is to enable you to pick up some yarn and think “oooh, this would make some lovely socks” and be able to just go to it. If you need to adjust the stitch numbers to get an even pattern repeat, a good rule of thumb is that you can usually go up or down 5% without much difficulty. Cable or twist-stitch patterns will need more stitches cast on since they draw in, while lace patterns will need fewer stitches; experiment!

Instructions are given for size 2 needles, with (size 7, size 6, size 5, size 4, size 3, size 1, size 0) instructions in parentheses.

Abbreviations:
K: knit
P: purl
Sl: Slip a stitch by passing it from one needle to the other without knitting it.
K2tog: knit two stitches together as though they were one stitch
SSK: Slip Slip Knit – slip one stitch as if to knit, slip one stitch as if to purl, put the tip of the non-working needle back into the FRONT of these two stitches, and knit together through the back loop.
K2tog tbl: Knit two stitches together through the back loop or leg of the stitch.

CASTING ON: using a needle 2-3 sizes larger, cast on 64 (40, 44, 44, 48, 56, 72, 80) stitches. Divide between four needles of the appropriate size and join, being careful not to twist the stitches.

CUFF: Work a k1, p1 rib for 16 (10, 11, 11 12, 14, 18, 20) rounds.

LEG: This is where you pick up your pattern. If you don’t have a specific pattern in mind, I suggest either a (k2, p2) rib or a (k3, p1) rib. Either looks good, is easy, and fits beautifully. In any case, for shorter (ankle) socks, work 48 (30, 33, 33, 36, 42, 54, 60) rounds; for longer (calf-length) socks, work 64 (40, 44, 44, 48, 56, 72, 80) rounds OR a number of rounds to give you an even pattern repeat.

HEEL: These instructions are for a gusset heel. You’re going to start by knitting two needles’ worth of stitches onto one needle; be sure to put the extra needle somewhere where you can find it again! (I usually weave it through the cuff of the sock.)
*Sl 1, k 1*; repeat across 2 needles worth of stitches, using the same needle as your working needle the whole time. When you’re done with that, you should have 32 (20, 22, 22, 24, 28, 36, 40) stitches on one needle. Turn the work around and slip the first stitch, then purl the rest across.

Repeat these two rows (right side: *sl 1, k1*; wrong side, sl 1, p remaining stitches) until you have 32 (20, 22, 22, 24, 28, 36, 40) rows altogether; this will be 16 (10, 11, 11, 12, 14, 18, 20) slipped stitches up the side of the heel flap. Be sure to end on a wrong side row.

Now you’re going to turn the heel. If you’ve never done this before, it will be confusing. Just trust the pattern and it will work out.

ROW 1: Sl 1, k 18 (11, 12, 12, 13, 15, 20, 22), k2tog, k1, turn.
Row 2: Sl 1, p7 (5, 5, 5, 5, 5, 7, 7), p2tog, p1, turn.
Row 3: Sl 1, k to within one stitch of gap, k2 tog across gap, k1, turn. (look at your needles. See the gap in between the stitches you’ve worked in this short row in the middle and the stitches that still need to be worked ? That’s the gap I’m talking about.)
Row 4: Sl 1, p to within one stitch of gap, p2tog across gap, p1, turn.

Repeat rows 3 and 4 until all stitches have been worked. You may not be able to work the final k1 after the decrease on the last row. That’s fine. 18 (12, 14, 14, 14, 16, 22, 24) stitches remain. If you ended on a right side row, proceed with the gusset; if you’ve ended on a wrong side row, K across plain.

Now you should have a tube with a flap hanging off of it, and the flap sort of curves around and has a little floor at it at the bottom. The needle in the end of the heel flap is needle #1 (N1), the needles in the instep stitches (the ones you’ve been ignoring all this time) are needles #2 and #3 (N2 and N3). The needle in your hand is #4 (N4). The needle in the cuff of your sock or wherever you stuck it is #5 (N5).

Using N1 as your working needle, pick up 16 (10, 11, 11, 12, 14, 18, 20) stitches along the side of the heel flap. You can either do this by sticking N4 through the big loop made by the slip stitch on the side of the heel and then knitting that loop off N4, or you can go to the purl stitch just inside the big loop, pick that one up with N4, and then knit it off N4.

Knit across N2 and N3, either plain or in pattern depending on whether or not you want the pattern to continue down the instep.

Using N4 as your working needle and N5, pick up 16 (10, 11, 11, 12, 14, 18, 20) stitches along the OTHER side of the heel flap. Still using N4 as the working needle, knit 9 (6, 7, 7, 7, 8, 11, 12) stitches off of N1. You should now have 4 needles in the work, with 16 (10, 11, 11, 12, 14, 18, 20) stitches on N2 and N3, and 25 (16, 18, 18, 19, 22, 29, 32) stitches on N1 and N4. The join between N1 and N4, at the bottom of the heel, is now the beginning of the round.

GUSSET: This is the part where the sock decreases as your foot gets narrower over the instep.

Round 1: K to 3 stitches before end on N1, K2tog, K1. K across N2 and N3 in pattern. On N4, K1, SSK (or k2tog tbl), and knit to end.
Round 2: Knit plain (instep stitches in pattern, if you’re doing that)
Repeat these two rounds until the foot needles (N1 and N4) have 16 (10, 11, 11, 12, 14, 18, 20) stitches each on them.

FOOT: Continue to knit the foot with no further decreases until the entire foot, including the gusset rows, measures 64 (40, 44, 44, 48, 56, 72, 80) rows. (Sizing note: This is for a women’s medium shoe size. If your foot is not a woman’s medium foot, measure your foot from the back of the heel to the tip of your big toe, and subtract 2″. Knit your sock foot to that length.)

TOE: This is a wedge toe. Discontinue the pattern stitch, if you were carrying it down the instep. From here on out, knit plain.

Round 1: K to 3 stitches before end of N1, K2tog, K1. On N2, K1, SSK (or K2tog tbl), K to end. On N3, K to 3 stitches before end, K2 tog, K1. On N4, K1, SSK (or K2tog tbl), K to end.
Round 2: knit plain.
Repeat these two rounds until there are 9 (6, 6, 6, 7, 8, 10, 11) stitches on each needle, then repeat round 1 only until there are 2 stitches left on each needle. Cut the yarn, leaving about an eight-inch tail. Thread a blunt needle with the yarn, and run it around through all 8 remaining stitches twice. Pull tight, tie off, and weave in the ends. (If you choose, you may leave 3 stitches on each needle and close the toe by the Kitchener stitch or grafting. Instructions on how to do so are beyond the scope of this document, at least until I get up off my lazy behind and write them.)

Knit another sock to match, and you’re done!

Addendum for 4 needles:

Hmmmm, let me think about it.
For the leg of the sock, I would split the stitches so that there are:
size 7: 13 13 14 (40 overall)
size 6 or size 5: 14 15 15 (44 overall)
size 4: 16 16 16 (48 overall)
size 3: 19 19 18 (56 overall)
size 2: 21 21 22 (64 overall)
size 1: 24 24 24 (72 overall)
size 0: 27 27 26 (80 overall)
When you get to the heel, split the stitches as follows:
size 7: 20 10 10
size 6/5: 22 11 11
size 4: 24 12 12
size 3: 28 14 14
size 2: 32 16 16
size 1: 26 18 18
size 0: 40 20 20
Knit the heel stitches on the needle with the large number of stitches on it.
When you get to the gusset, pick up stitches with N1 as described, then knit N2 and N3 (instep needles) onto one needle, then pick up with N4 to form the other side of the foot. Decrease until the foot needles have the number of stitches on them in the instructions.
For the toe decreases:
N1: K to 3 before end, K2 tog, K1
N2: K1, SSK, K to3 before end, K2tog, K1
N3: K1, SSK, K to end

Et voila.

Copyright 2003 Kathryn Tewson. Permission is granted to reproduce this pattern in any medium, as long as it is distributed for free and this copyright notice remains intact. Permission is also granted to produce items from this pattern for sale.

Check your gauge. Multiply the number of stitches you get per inch by two. The result is x. In equation format:

(spi * 2 = x)

Cast on 4x stitches, x on each needle. Join into a round, being careful not to twist the stitches.

Knit a cuff in the ribbing stitch of your choice for x rounds.

Switch to your leg pattern and knit 3x rounds for shorter socks, 4x rounds for longer socks.

Knit a heel in heel stitch for 2x rounds.

Repeat these two rows (right side: *sl1, K1*; wrong side, sl1, p remaining stitches) for 2x rows. Be sure to end on a wrong side row.

turn the heel as follows:

Row 1: Sl1, K (x + 2), K2tog, K1, turn. (Yes, turn. TURN IT AROUND. You’ll be fine.)
Row 2: Sl1, P7, P2tog, P1, turn.
Row 3: Row 3: Sl 1, k to within one stitch of gap, k2 tog across gap, k1, turn. (look at your needles. See the gap in between the stitches you’ve worked in this short row in the middle and the stitches that still need to be worked ? That’s the gap I’m talking about.)
Row 4: Sl 1, p to within one stitch of gap, p2tog across gap, p1, turn.

Repeat rows 3 and 4 until all stitches have been worked.

Pick up x stitches along either side of the heel flap, knitting across instep stitches as you come to them. Knit half the remaining heel stitches off of the first needle to the fourth. The beginning of the round is at the bottom of the heel.

GUSSET: This is the part where the sock decreases as your foot gets narrower over the instep.

Round 1: K to 3 stitches before end on N1, K2tog, K1. K across N2 and N3 in pattern. On N4, K1, SSK (or k2tog tbl), and knit to end. Round 2: Knit plain (instep stitches in pattern, if you’re doing that) Repeat these two rounds until the foot needles (N1 and N4) have x stitches on each of them.

Foot: Continue to knit the foot with no further decreases until the entire foot, including the gusset rows, measures 4x rows.

Toe: This is a wedge toe. Discontinue the pattern stitch, if you were carrying it down the instep. From here on out, knit plain.

Round 1: K to 3 stitches before end of N1, K2tog, K1. On N2, K1, SSK (or K2tog tbl), K to end. On N3, K to 3 stitches before end, K2 tog, K1. On N4, K1, SSK (or K2tog tbl), K to end.
Round 2: knit plain.
Repeat these two rounds until there are ((x-2)/2) stitches on each needle. Then repeat only round 1 until there are 2 stitches on each needle. Break yarn, run through all eight stitches twice, pull tight, and weave in ends. Knit another to match and you’re done!

Copyright 2004 Kathryn Tewson. Permission is granted to reproduce this pattern in any medium, as long as it is distributed for free and this copyright notice remains intact. Permission is also granted to produce items from this pattern for sale.

by Kathryn

First, check your gauge. Choose needles such that your yarn knits into a firm, dense fabric. You want to avoid drapeyness, or seeing a lot of light through your swatch when you hold it up and look through it. The firmer your fabric, the better your socks will wear!

Anyway, do all that, and check your gauge. Multiply the number of stitches you get per inch by two. The result is x. In equation format:

(spi * 2 = x)

Got that? So if your gauge is eight stitches per inch, x = 16.

Now begins the sock pattern.

Cast on 4x stitches, x on each needle. Join into a round, being careful not to twist the stitches.

Knit a cuff in the ribbing stitch of your choice for x rounds.

Switch to your leg pattern and knit 3x rounds for shorter socks, 4x rounds for longer socks.

For the heel, *sl1, K1*, repeat across 2 needles’ worth of stitches, using the same needle as your working needle the whole time. When this is done, you should have 2x stitches on one needle. Be sure to put the extra needle somewhere where you can find it! Turn the work around, slip the first stitch, and purl the rest of the stitches across.

Repeat these two rows (right side: *sl1, K1*; wrong side, sl1, p remaining stitches) for 2x rows. Be sure to end on a wrong side row.

Now to turn the heel. This looks deadly confusing. Do not quail in fear. This technique is called “short row shaping,” so-called because the ROWS are SHORTER than normal, as you turn around IN THE MIDDLE OF A ROW and go back the other way, in direct violation of everything you know about knitting.

Row 1: Sl1, K (x + 2), K2tog, K1, turn. (Yes, turn. TURN IT AROUND. You’ll be fine.)
Row 2: Sl1, P7, P2tog, P1, turn.
Row 3: Row 3: Sl 1, k to within one stitch of gap, k2 tog across gap, k1, turn. (look at your needles. See the gap in between the stitches you’ve worked in this short row in the middle and the stitches that still need to be worked ? That’s the gap I’m talking about.)
Row 4: Sl 1, p to within one stitch of gap, p2tog across gap, p1, turn.

Repeat rows 3 and 4 until all stitches have been worked. You may not be able to work the final k1 after the decrease on the last row. That’s fine. (x+4) stitches remain. (If x is odd, the number will actually be (x+3), due to the lack of a final K1 stitch.) If you ended on a right side row, proceed with the gusset; if you’ve ended on a wrong side row, K across plain.

Now you should have a tube with a flap hanging off of it, and the flap sort of curves around and has a little floor at it at the bottom. The needle in the end of the heel flap is needle #1 (N1), the needles in the instep stitches (the ones you’ve been ignoring all this time) are needles #2 and #3 (N2 and N3). The needle in your hand is #4 (N4). The needle in the cuff of your sock or wherever you stuck it is #5 (N5).

Using N1 as your working needle, pick up x stitches along the side of the heel flap. You can either do this by sticking N4 through the big loop made by the slip stitch on the side of the heel and then knitting that loop off N4, or you can go to the purl stitch just inside the big loop, pick that one up with N4, and then knit it off N4.

Knit across N2 and N3, either plain or in pattern depending on whether or not you want the pattern to continue down the instep.

Using N4 as your working needle and N5, pick up x stitches along the OTHER side of the heel flap. Still using N4 as the working needle, knit ((x+4)/2) stitches off of N1 {((x+3)/2) if x is odd) You should now have 4 needles in the work. The join between N1 and N4, at the bottom of the heel, is now the beginning of the round.

GUSSET: This is the part where the sock decreases as your foot gets narrower over the instep.

Round 1: K to 3 stitches before end on N1, K2tog, K1. K across N2 and N3 in pattern. On N4, K1, SSK (or k2tog tbl), and knit to end. Round 2: Knit plain (instep stitches in pattern, if you’re doing that) Repeat these two rounds until the foot needles (N1 and N4) have x stitches on each of them.

Foot: Continue to knit the foot with no further decreases until the entire foot, including the gusset rows, measures 4x rows.

Toe: This is a wedge toe. Discontinue the pattern stitch, if you were carrying it down the instep. From here on out, knit plain.

Round 1: K to 3 stitches before end of N1, K2tog, K1. On N2, K1, SSK (or K2tog tbl), K to end. On N3, K to 3 stitches before end, K2 tog, K1. On N4, K1, SSK (or K2tog tbl), K to end.
Round 2: knit plain.
Repeat these two rounds until there are ((x-2)/2) stitches on each needle. Then repeat only round 1 until there are 2 stitches on each needle. Break yarn, run through all eight stitches twice, pull tight, and weave in ends. Knit another to match and you’re done!

Copyright 2004 Kathryn Tewson. Permission is granted to reproduce this pattern in any medium, as long as it is distributed for free and this copyright notice remains intact. Permission is also granted to produce items from this pattern for sale.

by Chrisknitz

SIZE- Child’s. Size can determined by the amount of felting.

MATERIALS-
[MC] Cascade 220, 7802; 1 skein. I had 1 yard of yarn left, buy extra if you are a loose knitter.
[CC] S.R. Kertzer Multi Fizz,: 605; 1 skein

• 1 set US #10.5/6.5mm double-point needle
• 1 24-inch US #10.5/6.5mm circular needle
• Size G crochet hook
• stitch holders, stitch markers, tapestry needle,
• 2 decorative buttons, sewing thread and needle.

GAUGE-14 sts/16 rows=4″ in St st.

PROVISIONAL CAST ON (PCO)

Using the crochet hook and waste yarn make a chain of stitches that equal the number of sts you need plus 6 extra and secure the tail. With the appropriate size needle and yarn pick up sts by going into the “bump” st that is on the underside of the crochet chain. You will start in the 4th st from the end of the chain and will have a few crochet sts at the end when you are done.

FLAP

Using a PCO, CO 42 sts in MC using US #10.5/6mm circular needle.
Work in St st. for 2 rows starting with a K row.
Row 3: *K7, m1* 5 times, k7. [47 sts]
Rows 4 & 5: Work in St st.
Row 6: P7, *m1, p8* 5 times. [52 sts]
Rows 7 & 8: Work in St st.
Row 9: *K9, m1* 5 times, k7. [57 sts]

Short row shaping: Work to designated st on needle, bring yarn to front or back depending on whether it is a k or p row. Slip last st purlwise and take yarn to back or front as needed. Turn work and slip first st on right needle back to left needle.

Row 10-17: Short Rows;
Row 10: P 56, short row.
Row 11: K 55, short row. Continue in this manner, always knitting or purling one less st than previous rows.
On Row 17 you will not wrap the st. Cut MC and slip all sts onto holder. [57 sts]

MITTEN BODY

Left Mitten

Join MC and remove the PCO yarn as you knit into each live st. Place markers (PM) at the 31st & 32nd sts as you knit across row. [41 sts]
Row 2: P to 1st marker and slip it, m1, p1, m1, slip marker, p to end of row.
Rows 3 & 4: Work in St st. Repeat these 3 rows 4 more times, working your increase rows in St st. [52 sts] Place 11 gusset sts on holder.

Knit back across row, adding 1 st by e-wrap CO across the gusset space. [42 sts] Do not cut yarn.

Right mitten

Join MC and remove PCO as you knit into each live st. PM at the 10th & 11th sts as you knit across row. [41 sts]
Row 2: P to 1st marker, slip it, m1, p1, m1, slip marker, p to end of row.
Rows 3 & 4: Work in St st. Repeat these 3 rows 4 more times, working increase rows in St st. [52 sts]
Place 11 gusset sts on holder. Knit back across row, add 1 st by e-wrap CO across the gusset space. [42 sts] Do not cut yarn.

EDGE DETAIL

Take the other end of your MC and use it to work the edge. Carry along 1 strand of your novelty yarn with the MC. Using your US #10.5 circ and with right side facing, pick up 13 sts along the left edge. Knit sts from holder and then pick up 13 sts from right edge. [83 sts]

Knit 3 rows in garter st and bind off in knit. Cut both yarns, but leave your last cast off loop, live.

MITTEN TOP

Both mittens

Return to the MC end you left on the mitten body and proceed as follows: Pick up 1 st between the last st knit on the mitten body and the live loop from the edge detail. Purl back and pick up 2 sts along the edge detail at the end of the row. [46 sts]

Left Mitten

Switch to DPNs and join in the round as follows: RS facing and work held as in the round. With spare needle, slip off 6 sts from the left needle. Alternate slipping sts from the right needle and spare needle until all sts have been returned to needles, AND keeping the left flap overlapping the right one. Continue to work in the round, knitting 2 sts together when you come back to the 8 sets of slipped sts. Place marker for Beginning Of Round to the left of the e-wrap CO st. [40 sts]

Work until piece measures 4” from e-wrap CO.

Right Mitten

Worked the same as the left mitten except: slip the 6 sts off of the right needle, replacing them so that the right flap overlaps the left one. PM to the right of the e-wrap CO to denote BOR. Work until piece measures 4” from e-wrap CO.

TOP SHAPING

Both Mittens

Round 1: *K8, k2tog* 4 times. [36 sts]
Round 2: Knit.
Round 3: *K7, k2tog* 4 times. [32 sts]
Round 4: Knit.

Continue in this manner by knitting one less st between decreases every other round until 20 sts remain. Then decrease every round until 8 sts remain. Cut yarn and pull tail through live sts, weave in the end.

THUMB

Slip gusset sts to 2 DPNs and use DPN to pick up sts around thumb opening. Pick up 7 and knit straight for 2 inches from pick up sts. [18 sts]

THUMB SHAPING

Round 1: *K2tog, k2*, k2tog. [13 sts]
Round 2: Knit.
Round 3: *K2tog, k3*. [10 sts]
Round 4: *K2tog*. [5 sts]

Cut yarn, pull it through live sts on needles, weave in ends.

FINISHING

Weave in all ends. Felting is going to be different for every knitter and washer, check the gauge swatch to see how your knitting will react. Once felted, use decorative buttons and loop closures to secure the flaps. Loops can be made with I-cord, crocheted chains, or twisted cords. Or sew the flaps together by tacking them together.

Copyright Chrisknits 2004
chrisknitz@insightbb.com

May not be reproduced in any form.

by Maia

This bag is knit with double-stranded yarn. I worked from the inside and outside of a center-pull ball. It is knit in the round after the base, so a circular needle is required. It is a simple project appropriate for novice or experienced knitters. Once fulled (semi-felted) it will be thick and durable.

Use it to carry groceries, craft projects, or whatever you wish. I started this bag at the first annual San Francisco Giants Stitch-N-Pitch on July 27, 2006. The colors are Giants colors (of course!). Change the colors to anything you what (just don’t tell me if you use Dodger Blue). It was a great game, the start of a winning streak and I got to see a suicide squeeze. Yes, I am a bit of a baseball nerd.

This pattern is in Adobe Acrobat reader format. Click here to download the pattern.

Pattern doesn’t make sense? You found an error? Have a question? Contact me at miss_maia@hotmail.com.

Please visit me at my blog. Corrections and questions regarding this pattern will be answered at the Big Bag Page.

by Maia

This blanket is knit in the round starting at the center. I used double pointed needles to start, followed by a circular needle. The blanket is almost a circle; it is actually eleven wedges forming a polygon. While it is fairly small, it is the perfect size for a little warmth in a stroller or baby carriage.

This pattern is in Adobe Acrobat reader format. Click here to download the pattern.

Pattern doesn’t make sense? You found an error? Have a question? Contact me at miss_maia@hotmail.com.

Corrections and questions regarding this pattern will be answered at
Henry’s Blanket Page. Please visit me at my blog at http://maiaspins.typepad.com/maiaspins/.