Island of Misfit Patterns

by Jessica

Over the two and a half years I’ve been knitting, I’ve put some effort into figuring out how to fix projects without ripping. The missing yarn over is probably the easiest fix to make and in a larger lace project will save you lots of heart ache.

This tutorial shows how to fix a missing yarn over that is discovered on a subsequent right side row. The first step is identifying the mistake. The pattern in the sample piece is k1, *YO, k2tog* [repeat to last stitch], k1. A yarn over (YO) occurs between two stitches. Look at the picture below and try to determine where the YO should be.

The red arrow shows where the YO should be in this pattern. Reading your knitting is an important step in fixing problems without ripping out the entire offending piece.

Next, knit in pattern up to the space where the YO should be.

Now, place the tip of your right needle, from back to front, under the second horizontal strand between the two stitches.

Place the horizontal bar untwisted on the left hand needle.

Insert the tip of your right needle into the stitch from front to back (do not twist the stitch), then pick up the first horizontal bar between the stitches and draw it through. (you are knitting into this stitch, but instead of using yarn from the ball to form a new stitch, you are using the horizontal bar in the space between the stitches above it)

Drop the second horizontal bar off the left hand needle. You will have a twisted stitch on the right hand needle.

Slip this stitch back onto the left hand needle, untwisting it as you do.

You are now ready to continue knitting in pattern, the missing YO has been replaced.

Finish the row, and then look to see if you can even find where you fixed your mistake – probably not!

Occasionally the newly added YO will be a bit smaller than the other YOs, especially if you are a tight knitter. Don’t worry, this will even out with blocking.

Text by Jessica Landers
Photos by Andrew Wood

by Dee

Last weekend I witnessed a particularly brutal attack of the skein. The yarn had been wound using a swift and ball winder into a tight pull skein. As the yarn end was pulled from the center the brutality began, a tangled mess of fiber emerged from the center causing mayhem and with efforts like that of Zigfield and Roy, a rather lengthy taming of the skein ensued thus delaying prime knitting time. We simply cannot let these skeins get the better of us.

I witnessed my first attack at a knitting retreat in 2002. A woman had bought a hank of yarn and attempted to wind it with the aid of a friend acting as the swift only to have the hank of yarn fall through the fingers of the friend as the woman was winding the ball. Several hours later and with a few strategic snips of the scissors, the mess of the entanglement was tamed but the spirit of the knitter was broken.

Personally I have only suffered one such attack and it was so swift and brutal that it left me scarred. I had to purchase a swift and ball winder before I could go near another hank without beads of sweat appearing on my forehead.

Placing the skein around the arms of a swift takes a little practice but it is not a difficult task. Please do yourself a favor and do not remove any strings or ties until the skein is securely positioned in the arms of the swift. Next make sure the yarn is not twisted and pull an outer end and use it to thread the ball winder and secure the end in the groove in the center piece. In this instance turning the crank quickly is not the best course of action. Be sure to use a consistent and even manner at a slow to medium speed as you crank the end. This will allow the yarn to wind smoothly and create a spongy and soft skein. Winding too quickly will create a tight skein and the yarn will be stretched and stressed making it difficult to pull from the center. Before removing the skein from the winder I suggest that the outer end be wound around the skein and tucked in. Also place your thumb under the end that was secured in the groove and lift it up as you gently remove the skein from the winder.

*Note when winding most yarns the winder should spin around like a merry-go-round but if you are winding silky yarns like rayon ribbon types the swift must be positioned like a Ferris wheel to avoid any tangling and misbehaving on the part of the yarn.

Lastly I have a suggestion about yarn usage and taming the skein. A foundation support is a necessity for ample breasted women and the same applies to skeins of yarn, you must place a bra on your yarn and it will offer it support as the yarn is knit thus taming the skein. You can easily make your own yarn bra but purchasing a small sized scrubby puff from the drugstore or bath shop. Cut the center rope and the puff will unravel then you simply cut the netting into 10”-12” lengths and begun supporting those unruly skeins. I have also used the netting from produce such as fruits and vegetables that I have bought at Trader Joes.

For balls of yarn like all those slippery railroad ribbon yarns I often pop the ball into a Ziploc bag and let the yarn unwind contained at my side.

One final word, sometimes despite all our best efforts when we pull from the center of the skein it may purge itself and spit out a bit of “yarn vomit”. This small amount of regurgitation is harmless in the scheme of things. This amount of disgorged matter can be knit up quickly in the first few rows leaving you with a tame and secure skein to knit with.

Happy and safe knitting to you!

ABOUT THE AUTHOR
Deanna prefers that you call her Dee. She knits too much, cleans too little, blogs a bit and lives in Chicagoland with her husband, two teenage sons and two adorable westies. She is organizing the second and now annual Heartland Knitting Retreat this December 2006 details at www.kneatles.com

by Dee

Cotton yarn in a DK weight
US size 4 needles

CO 1 stitch
Row 1 Knit into the stitch 3 times by knitting through the front, then back then front again. (3sts)
Row 2 and all even rows: Purl every stitch.
Row 3 Knit 1, yo, K1, yo, K1 (5 sts)
Row 5 K1, yo, knit to last stitch yo, K1. (7 sts)
Row 7 K1, yo, knit to last stitch yo, K1. (9 sts)
Row 9 K1, ssk, k3, k2tog, K1. (7 sts)
Row 11 K1, ssk, k1, k2tog, k1. (5 sts)
Row 13 K1, (slip 1, k2tog, psso) k1. (3 sts)
Row 15 Slip 1, K2tog, psso and pull the end through and use this end to attach the leaf to the hat.
Weave in the tail from the cast on and voila, the leaf is finished.

ABOUT THE DESIGNER
Deanna prefers that you call her Dee. She knits too much, cleans too little, blogs a bit and lives in Chicagoland with her husband, two teenage sons and two adorable westies. She is organizing the second and now annual Heartland Knitting Retreat this December 2006 details at www.kneatles.com

by Kat

A simple sock pattern with an easy-to-memorize stitch. Looks good in either self striping fingerweight yarn or solid colors. This is a mock cable because you don’t actually need to do any cabling, it’s just a matter of yarn overs and slipping stitches.

Materials:

1 ball Sockotta from Plymouth Yarns, color 617. Contains 100 grams of 45% cotton, 40% wool, 15% nylon.

1 set of size 2 double pointed needles

3 stitch markers

1 yarn needle for grafting and weaving in ends

Gauge:

7 sts = 1 inch on US size needle 2 in st

Size:

For a lady’s foot size 7-10. My mom and I wear a size 9 1/2 and these fit us fine. While you are knitting, they look small but the stitch pattern is a rib stitch so it will really stretch to hug your feet in snug warmness.

Lacy Mock Cable Pattern

Round 1: * K2 P2 * repeat from * to *

Round 2: * K1, YO, K1, P2 *

Round 3: * K3, P2 *

Round 4: * K3, P2 *

Round 5: * K3, then pass the first of these k sts over the last 2 and drop it, p2 *

Close-up of the stitch pattern can be found here.

Directions

Cuff

Cast on 56 stitches loosely. Divide evenly between dpn?s and place marker and join, careful not to twist the stitches. Work in k2 p2 rib for one inch. Change to lacy mock cable pattern stitch; work until piece measures 5 and 3/4 inch, ending with round 5 of stitch pattern.

Place last 28 stitches on one needle, and first 28 stitches on another. The heel flap is working on the last 28 stitches only. (I use point protectors on the ends of the needle holding the first 28 stitches while I am working the heel flap. You can also place them on a stitch holder if you are more comfortable.)

Heel flap (worked back and forth on last 28 stitches only)
Round 1 *Slip 1, k 1; rep from *.
Round 2 *Slip 1, p 1; rep from *.
Repeat Rows 1 and 2 until heel flap measures 2 1/4″ ending with Row 2.

Turn Heel
Row 1 K 17, ssk, k 1, turn.
Row 2 Slip 1, p 7, p2tog, p 1, turn.
Row 3 Slip 1, k 8, ssk, k 1, turn.
Row 4 Slip 1, p 9, p2tog, p 1, turn.
Row 5 Slip 1, k 10, ssk, k 1, turn.
Row 6 Slip 1, p 11, p2tog, p 1, turn.

Row 7 Slip 1, k 12, ssk, k 1, turn.
Row 8 Slip 1, p 13, p2tog, p 1, turn.
Row 9 Slip 1, k 14, ssk, k 1, turn.
Row 10 Slip 1, p 15, p2tog, p 1

You will now have 18 stitches.

Gusset:

Knit until marker, p1, inc 1 and p1. These two purl sts are now your selvage sts. Continue in Lacy Mock Cable Stitch pattern until 2nd marker, k to end of round.

Round 1: knit to 3 sts before first marker, k2tog, k1, slip marker, p2, continue in Lacy Mock Cable Stitch pattern until 2nd marker, slip marker, k1, ssk, knit to end of round.

Round 2: knit until first marker, p2, continue in Lacy Mock Cable Stitch pattern until 2nd marker, slip marker, knit to end of round.

Continue in rounds 1 and 2 until 58 stitches remain. Keep markers in place for toe shaping, and continue with just round 2 until sock measures 7 1/2 inches, or two inches shorter than desired total length.

Toe Shaping:

Round 1: Knit to 3 sts before first marker, k2tog, k1, slip marker, k1, ssk, knit to 3 sts before second marker, k2tog, k1, slip marker, k1, ssk, knit to end of round.

Round 2: Knit

Repeat these rounds until 22 stitches remain.

Finishing the toe: Knit 6 stitches. Divide stitches onto two needles so that 11 are on top and 11 are on bottom, and so that toe is perpendicular to the foot. Graft remaining stitches together, weave in ends.

About the designer:

Kat owns a cell phone store in the Chicago suburbs and needs something to do with her hands that doesn’t involve smoking or stabbing someone, hence she knits constantly while on the phone yelling at customer service reps. She has a few free patterns on her pattern site and also has a personal journal.

by Em

Here is my ‘pattern’ for the squid I made- It’s the first one I’ve ever written out, so I’m sure it’s far from perfect. I also wrote it up after I finished it and haven’t made another to test it (because lord knows I’ll never put it up if I have to do that first). so any suggestions would be appreciated, or something is wrong, just let me know!

anyways, those are my disclaimers, and here goes:
Adventures in squiddom

Yarn: Paton’s Classic Merino wool. Much less than one skein.
Needles: Clover size 7 Dpn’s

Body:
Cast on 26 sts
knit 20 rounds in sockinette
purl 1 round, increasing every other stitch (39 sts)
purl 1 round.
purl 1 round, increasing every third stitch (52 sts)

transfer to two DPNs- 26 on each,
Knit the next 12 rounds, decreasing a stitch at both ends of each DPN
when you’re down to 3 sts on each needle bind off using three needle bind off.

Long tentacles, Make two:
cast on 6 sts.
k 24 rounds*
k2 into each stitch (12 sts)
k next round
k2 into every other stitch (18)
k two rounds.
(k 2tog, k)3 times (12 sts)
(k 2tog) 3 times (6 sts)
(k 2tog) 3 times (3 sts)
k 3tog-
run excess yarn back through tentacle

Short tentacles (make 8**):
the short tentacles are basically an icord-
cast on 3 sts,
Knit 9 rounds*
P 3 sts.
k, k2 into the middle stitch, k
p 4 sts
k, k2 into middle two stitches, k
(P 2tog) 3 times
k 3 sts
(p 3 tog)
run excess yarn back through tentacle

*looking at squids, they don’t seem terribly symmetrical, so I didn’t make all the tentacles the same length.

**Squids have 10 tentacles (I googled it:) promptly after I googled it, apparently I forgot, and my squid only has 8 tentacles- so, depending on how precise you are, make the appropriate number of short tentacles.

Finishing:

Evenly space small tentacles around the edge of the squid.
I felted my squid before sewing on the long tentacles… Using about 6 inches of yarn, I loosely attached the long tentacles to the inside top of the squids head- after felting I used some black acrylic yarn to sew on his eyes, which were about 1 sts wide, and two sts high-

Because of the size of the needles the stitches are still visible despite the felting, it didn’t bother me much, but I intend to tinker with the pattern a little w/different needles/ more aggressive felting.

by Dee

I designed “Charm” to help introduce new techniques to scarf knitters to expand their knitting capabilities. You will be using circular knitting, a provisional cast on, three needle bind off and shaped decreases.
Materials:

• One skein Nashua Wooly Stripes (heavy worsted/chunky weight yarn 88 yards) or one skein of Noro Kureyon (heavy worsted 110 yards)
• A pair of US 10 – 16” length circular knitting needles
• One set of double pointed needles size US 10
• 2 stitch markers
• Safety pin
• Crochet hook size G or H
• One yard waste yarn for provisional cast on
• 2 bangle-style bracelets for handles

Directions:

Using the crochet hook make a single crochet chain of 61-65 stitches (sts)

With the circular needle pick up knit 60 bumps in the chain making sure to leave a 1 yard tail, place marker, also mark the first stitch with a safety pin and then join in the round being careful not to twist the sts.

On the next round knit 30 sts and place the second marker, and continue to knit until the piece measures 8 ½ inches binding off the last 8 stitches of the row.

Remove the stitch marker at the beginning and bind off another 8 sts. (16 total)

Knit 14 sts and bind off 16 sts then knit the remaining 14 sts, turn work.

You will now be working back and forth on one handle at a time but before beginning divide the remaining yarn in half and cut it reserving half for the second handle.

1. Purl across and turn work
2. Work a SSK (Slip, Slip, Knit the slipped sts together) decrease then knit across to the last two sts and K2tog (Knit 2 sts together), turn work.

Repeat these two rows until 8 sts remain then continue to knit the right side rows and purl the wrong side rows until you are almost out of yarn then bind off all stitches.

Join the reserved strand of yarn to the wrong side of the remaining stitches on the needle for the second handle and purl across. Work row 2 as written above and continue in the same manner as the first handle.

Turn bag inside out and remove the waste yarn and place the first 30 sts beginning with the stitch marked by the safety pin onto one dpn, and the remaining 30 onto a second dpn. Using the third dpn and the 1 yarn tail you will work a 3 needle bind off for the bottom portion of the bag. To do this you will need to knit the first stitch from the front needle and the first stitch from the back needle together at the same time, do this one again with the next two stitches and then bind off the first stitch. Continue in this manner until all stitches are bound off.

Still leaving the bag inside out and using what little yarn you have left fold the bag bottom so the 3 needle bind off seam faces up and sew across each end about 1 inch in on the seam forming a small triangle at each end. This will help give the shape to the bottom of the bag.

Now you are ready to felt your “Charm”. Pop the purse into a mesh laundry bag and set your washer to hot water and small load size. Add a couple of pairs of blue jeans or large towels and a touch of detergent such as Tide to the tub and run the washer through a full cycle. Remove and block your purse.

NOTE: If you are using Noro’s Kureyon you will probably need to repeat the wash sequence a few times to achieve a desirable result.

When the purse is completely dry, sew the straps down with the bracelets in place using a needle and regular sewing thread.

Enjoy and make another one because these are so fast and so cute!

ONE LAST WORD: You will be using nearly every single bit of the Nashua Yarn, so if you are a very loose knitter you may want to purchase a second skein as “insurance”.

ABOUT THE DESIGNER
Deanna prefers that you call her Dee. She knits too much, cleans too little, blogs a bit and lives in Chicagoland with her husband, two teenage sons and two adorable westies. She is organizing the second and now annual Heartland Knitting Retreat this December 2006 details at www.kneatles.com

by Gail

I know that there is a huge demand for information on how to felt with acrylic yarn. After exhaustive research, I’ve written up the following guide. I hope it is helpful!

List of Materials Needed:

1. Some acrylic yarn. Make sure it doesn’t have any natural fiber content in it whatsoever. That would be bad.
2. An oversized stock pot. The one you attempted to use to Brine your turkey before you accidentally killed all your relatives will serve you well here. Plus, it’ll hide the evidence.
3. A blow torch.
4. An oven. Preferably one that you don’t plan on using much in the future.
5. A welding shield.
6. Some tongs.
7. Some leather gloves. Not the nice ones – the heat shielding kind.

Step 1:

Knit something out of that acrylic. Make it bigger than you want the final results to be.

Step 2:

Drinking some alcohol is probably a good idea here.

Step 3:

Turn on the oven as high as it will go. Throw your knitted acrylic garment into the oversized stock pot, and stick that in the oven. It is a matter of great debate on whether or not you should add water – water will probably slow the felting process, but may keep the yarn from melting to the bottom of the pot. Maybe you should add some canola oil or something.

Step 4:

Open a window. Take the batteries out of the fire alarm.

Step 5:

Check on your garment. If all is going well, it will become soft and melty. With the gloves and tongs, coax it into the shape you want. You may also want to stir it around to make sure that it isn’t sticking.

Step 6:

Once your garment has shrunk down and appears to be the correct shape, remove the stockpot from the oven. Throw a bunch of water into it. You might want to put on the welders shield now. Then, with the tongs, remove the item from the pot, and arrange it charmingly. You should no longer be able to see individual stitches. You may find that your garment is a bit inflexible – that is to be expected.

Step 7:

Once your garment has cooled, you can use the blow torch and tongs to make any last minute adjustments, such as creating holes in your slippers for the feet.

Step 8:

Enjoy your fabulous felted acrylic garment! Tune in next week where Gail explains how to use flexible rods to keep your stockinette from curling!

by Abigail Welbourn

I love this cast on; it creates a lovely braided effect that is stunning on mittens or hats. It’s perfect for two colour knitting, no need to fumble to add the second colour, it’s already there! And it sets up your stitches perfectly for corrugated ribbing!

The site where I originally learned this technique did a terrible job at explaining it, and it took me forever to figure it out. I decided to make a better set of instructions after several people on another list asked me how I did it.

Braided cast on:

**This cast on uses a modified version of the long tail cast on**
Tutorials can be found here:

• http://www.knittinghelp.com/knitting/basic_techniques/ (video)
• http://www.butlercountryknit.com/longtail.pdf (PDF)
• http://www.knitty.com/ISSUEsummer05/FEATsum05TT.html (scroll down)

Step 1:
Make a slip knot using two colours of yarn held together, place the knot on your needle. Hold the free ends out of the way.

Step 2:

1. Hold the yarn colour at the top side of the needle (green) around the front and then back of your thumb, with the tail hanging down the palm of your hand.
2. Hold the colour at the bottom end of your needle (red) around the front and then back of your index finger, with the tail hanging down the palm of your hand.
3. Hold the tails out of your way using the other three fingers of your hand.

Step 3:
Put the needle under and up through the palm side yarn coming from around your thumb, grab the front yarn going around your index finger and pull it through.

Step 4:
Release the yarn from around your thumb and tug at both yarns to snug the loop around the needle.

Step 5:
Move the index finger (red) yarn OVER the thumb (green) yarn and place on your thumb; place the other (green) yarn around your finger as before. (Always move the top (finger) yarn OVER the bottom (thumb) yarn to create the braided effect)

Repeat step 3-5 until as many stitches as needed are cast on.
Your yarn will begin to twist after a few stitches are made, don’t worry, this is normal, just ignore it, or stop periodically and let your needle hang to untwist the working yarns.

If you have any questions or if anything is unclear, let me know and I’ll try to explain better.

by Dee

My son loves wearing beanies all year around; he says it’s his signature piece of clothing. When he asked for a new beanie for the summer, I thought that the traditional Nordic designs I’ve been knitting for him didn’t scream summertime so I designed a totally tubular beanie with some tasty waves that reminds me of the beaches I’ve left behind in California. I can smell the Coppertone already. Cowabunga dude!

Size: One size fits an average adult head
Circumference: 21 inches unstretched
Length: 6.5 inches

Materials:

• Main Color – 1 skein Heirloom Breeze [30% Wool, 69.6% Cotton, 0.4% Lycra; 95 m per 50g skein]; color: Dark Turquoise # 013;
• Contrast Color – 1 skein Heirloom Breeze [30% Wool, 69.6% Cotton, 0.4% Lycra; 95 m per 50g skein]; color: Light Turquoise #011;
• 1 set(s) US #6/4mm double-point needles
• 16 inch length-inch US #6/4mm circular needle

Gauge: 26 sts/36 rows = 4″ in stockinette stitch

Notes: Using Fair Isle knitting techniques follow chart as written, catching the floats every 4th stitch or so. Note: At the end of the last repeat one extra square is to be worked in the contrast color at the end of each round.

Pattern:

Using MC and circular needle cast on 132 stitches place a marker and join into the round being careful not to twist the stitches then work a K1 P1 ribbing for one inch. Switch to St st and continue working with MC until piece measures 2 inches from cast on edge. Begin working ocean wave chart as written using the MC as the charted design and the CC as the background. Be sure to catch the floats every 4th stitch as you work. After completing the last row of the chart break off the MC and continue working in St st with the CC until hat measures 5 inches from the cast on edge. Begin decreases as follows:

Row 1:[K10, k2tog] repeat to end of row

Row 2 and all even rows: Knit

Row 3: [K9, k2tog] repeat to end of row

Row 4: Knit

Row 5: [K8, k2tog] repeat to end of row

Row 6: Knit

Row 7: [K7, k2tog] repeat to end of row

Row 8: Knit

Row 9: [K6, k2tog] repeat to end of row

Row 10: Knit

Row 11: [K5, k2tog] repeat to end of row

Row 12: Knit

Row 13: [K4, k2tog] repeat to end of row

Row 14: Knit

Row 15: [K3, k2tog] repeat to end of row

Row 16: Knit

Row 17: [K2, k2tog] repeat to end of row

Row 18: Knit

Row 19: [K1, k2tog] repeat to end of row

Row 20: Knit

Row 21: [k2tog] repeat to end of row

Row 22: Knit

There should now be 11 stitches remaining on the needles and you have ended on a knit row. Break yarn and thread through remaining stitches and secure.
Weave in all ends and block lightly.

Pattern Chart:

ABOUT THE DESIGNER
Deanna prefers that you call her Dee. She knits too much, cleans too little, blogs a bit and lives in Chicagoland with her husband, two teenage sons and two adorable westies. She is organizing the second and now annual Heartland Knitting Retreat this December 2006 details at www.kneatles.com

I have a rant. Yes, I know, what else is new? I have nothing against men knitting. I think its nice. Just like I think its nice that some women knit. However, I am fed up with the whole “Wow, a man who knits! That’s so wonderful!” theme going on.

The Chicago Tribune writes a story about how fabulous it is that these middle school/high school boys dare to take a knitting class. Guys show up on a knitting list, and declares that he is a man who, *gasps*, knits, and all the members run over and shower praise and wonder and attention and gushing out of all sense of proportion. Men talk about how _horrible_ it is to go into a yarn shop with the SO, and have the yarn shop employees talk to his girlfriend first.

They have to have their own classes, their own forum spaces, because you know, us little women just don’t understand. Dude. Join the club. In fact, I’m _happy_ that for the first time in your life, you have gone into a store and not been immediately served while your own SO is ignored. You want to know the number of times that I’ve gone into a computer store and had a guy talk to my boyfriend instead of me? How about car salesmen? Mechanics? And have it continue even after you make clear that _you_ are the subject matter expert, not your SO?

I find it hysterical that the treatment (in fact, the much worse treatment) that women have had to deal with for, well, since we were allowed out of the house on our own causes such consternation and outrage in the heart of these men. Oh, dear, a yarn shop owner assumed he didn’t knit. The horrors.

Then, let’s talk about the women. You know, the women who gush and pet and adore the men who knit. As if the very fact that a man would knit now truly validates the time they spend on their own, knitting. As if nothing is important unless a man is doing it, and if a man is doing it, then nothing may stand in his way. These are the same women who see nothing wrong with having to sneak yarn purchases past their husbands (and even seem to think its just _hysterical_ to talk about it, or are oh so grateful that a man would “babysit” their own children to let them out of the house to go to a Stich N Bitch.

If a guy wants to knit, then cool. Go knit. It’s too bad if you have to ask for attention the first or second time you go into a yarn shop. Don’t expect me to praise you as if you just solved the Middle East crisis and stopped global warming, all in an afternoon. (Of course, not all men are like that, blahblahblah, but still. Geez.)